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    Home » LA » Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant - A Post is Worth a Thousand Pictures

    December 2009 LA

    Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant - A Post is Worth a Thousand Pictures

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Hamachi Handroll, closeup

    Kiyokawa

    265 S. Robertson Ave
    Beverly Hills, CA
    310.358.1900
    www.kiyokawarestaurant.com

    Curious after a mysterious tweet, interested after the review, I am now slightly obsessed after my own experience at Kiyokawa, a tiny Japanese treasure in Beverly Hills that Jonathan Gold says is "the first place I was tempted to keep for myself."

    Good thing he didn't.

    We tried the chef's tasting menu ($78), the sushi omakase ($48), and had a couple bottles of sake.

    Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. Here are 47,000, first the entire Chef's Omakase in course order, then the Sushi Omakase.

    Kiyokawa Chef's Omakase

    First Course: Marinated Vegetables

    Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant, Chef's Omakase - Course 01

    Marinated Spinach from First Course

    Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant, Chef's Omakase - Spinach

    Cucumber Oshinko with Bottarga (slices of dried fish roe) from First Course

    Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant, Chef's Omakase - Oshinko, Dried Fish Roe

    Lotus Root from First Course

    Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant, Chef's Omakase - Lotus

    Burdock Root from First Course

    Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant, Chef's Omakase - Burdock Root

    Second Course: Sashimi with Whole Mackerel

    Whole Mackerel, spotted across the bar

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Whole Spanish Mackerel

    Spanish Mackerel Sashimi from Second Course

    Kiyokawa Japanese Restaurant, Chef's Omakase, Aji Sashimi

    Halibut, Uni, Toro! Toro! Spanish Mackerel Sashimi

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Sashimi Course 02

    Halibut Flower and Uni Sashimi from Second Course

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Halibut Sashimi Course 02

    Fresh Grated Wasabi on Tiny Grater, presented alongside sashimi

    It took a lot to restrain my inner korean klepto and not snatch the tiny, Post-It sized grater from the sashimi presentation and shove it into my purse.

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Fresh Wasabi on Grater

    Deep Fried Whole Mackerel Skeleton, taken away, fried and re-presented after finishing Second Course

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Whole Fried Spanish Mackerel

    Third Course: Pretty Little Things (I am making this name up because...because)

    Foie Gras, Uni, Snow Crab, Halibut, Oyster, Hamachi [clockwise from top left]

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Course 03

    Seared Foie Gras from Third Course

    I asked what it was.

    "Foie gras."

    From...?

    He gave me a curious look then replied "Hudson Valley..."

    I clarified, asking from what animal? His was a question-answer. "Duck?"

    But it's such a tiny little foie gras, it must have been a tiny duck!

    He laughed. I think it was out of politeness. Or fear.

    I wasn't buzzed. (Yet.)

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Foie Gras

    Marinated Uni from Third Course, presented in jewel box

    I do not love uni. In fact, I used to hate uni because I could not get over what they actually are — gonads — even though...well, never mind. The point is, when I have a piece that is that particular perfect combination of sweet and metallic, I enjoy it, but I don't crave uni like I crave a funyun.

    The marinated uni makes me crave funyuns. Yes it was so good, it confused me, too.

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase, Marinated Uni

    Snow Crab on Wonton Crisp from Third Course:

    Is this...a crab nacho?

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase, Snow Crab on Crisp Wonton

    Hamachi and Jalapeno from Third Course

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase, Hamachi with Jalapeno

    Kumamoto Oyster with Caviar and Gold:

    There may be bigger, "better," brinier, there may be milder, sweeter, or even overall tastier, but there will never be an oyster sexier than the tiny Kumamoto coming so completely undone, reaching down with her frilly little lip for a taste of the luxury left on the bump of her belly just barely rising above her own innocent puddle.

    kKiyokawa, Chef's Omakase, Kumamoto Oyster

    East Coast Halibut from Third Course

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Halibut Sashimi

    Fourth Course: Daikon, Taro and Tofu in Broth

    from Jonathan Gold: "astonishing in its simplicity, a strong dashi bathing a single, luscious round of daikon; some carrot; half a taro root with its hairy outside but not its potatolike inner skin removed; and a couple of snow peas. It takes 15 minutes to remove the outer skin of taro, rubbing each tuber with a crumpled piece of aluminum foil instead of swiping it with a knife. Each vegetable needs to be simmered separately, and combined only at the end, so that the flavors do not muddy one another. It is a dish worthy of a three-star French chef."

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase, Daikon

    Fifth Course: Miso Marinated Cod

    from Jonathan Gold: "so delicate that it barely makes it to mouth without collapsing"

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase, Miso Cod

    Sixth Course: Fried Scallop and Tofu Dumpling in Broth

    from Jonathan Gold: "recalls a New York deli by way of Japan: a kind of treyf matzoh ball"

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase, Scallop Broth

    Seventh Course: Sushi

    Toro, Super Toro, Halibut Fin, Uni and Salmon Sushi [clockwise form top left]

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Sushi

    Halibut Fin from Seventh Course

    Kiyokawa, Chef's Omakase - Halibut Fin Sushi

    Yuzu and Fresh Wasabi on Grater

    Kiyokawa, Fresh Wasabi in Case

    Caviar, Ankimo ("I thought it was raw chicken, but..." Never mind.) Truffle Salt

    Kiyokawa, Caviar, Ankimo and Truffle Salt

    Live Abalone

    What's that?

    "Live abalone!"

    (Gross)

    "Try it!"

    Ooo K. (Gross)

    Kiyokawa, Live Abalone

    Horin Sake: "Rich fragrance, smooth taste, clean finish"

    Kiyokawa, Sake Bottle in Ice

    Sushi Omakase

    Miso Soup

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase, Miso Soup

    Sushi Omakase, First Course

    Black Snapper, Red Snapper, Kanpachi, East Coast Halibut [clockwise from top left]

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase, Course 01

    Black Snapper from First Course

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase, Black Snapper

    Red Snapper from First Course

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase, Red Snapper

    Kanpachi, Wasabi from First Course

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Kanpachi

    East Coast Halibut from First Course

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase, East Coast Halibut

    Second Course: Spanish Mackerel Sushi

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Spanish Mackerel

    Second Course: Pike Mackerel Sushi

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Pike Mackerel

    Second Course: Pike Mackerel Sushi, from the backside

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Pike Mackerel

    Third Course: Toro Sushi

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Toro

    Third Course: Albacore Belly with Tokyo Fried Onions

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Albacore Belly

    Fifth Course: Live Abalone Wrapped in Shiso with Plum Sauce

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Abalone

    Fifth Course: Scallop

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Scallop

    Sixth Course: Hamachi Belly

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Hamachi Belly

    Sixth Course: Uni

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Uni

    Seventh Course: Hamachi Handroll

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Hamachi Handroll

    Flash Seared Super Toro

    Tasted like steak.
    kiyokawa-special-toro

    Pickled Baby Ginger

    If for nothing else, just go to taste the pickled ginger, which is (re-)pickled in-house to a much sweeter, milder flavor, and served shredded. If you ask with curiosity, Chef breaks out the secret stash of baby ginger. Condiment candy.
    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Baby Ginger

    Dessert: Black Sesame Ice Cream

    Kiyokawa, Sushi Omakase - Black Sesame Ice Cream

    More on Kiyokawa:

    ~ Review by Jonathan Gold on LAWeekly
    ~ I had this meal with jewelz. his pictures are a lot prettier than mine
    ~ bitechewswallow says it's easily one of the best Japanese meals in America
    ~ First mentioned in July 2008, chowhounds weigh in (after the JGold review)

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    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. Juney says

      December 02, 2009 at 8:32 am

      Wow. W-O-W. Help me because all I can think about now, at 8:30 in the morning, is wanting the chef's tasting menu at Kiyokawa.

      Seriously, the food porn is almost too much ... it's overwhelming.

      Reply
    2. Fiona says

      December 02, 2009 at 9:25 am

      oh. my. god. this is beautiful. especially the uni (swallows). i love nothing more than a uni nigiri, and only really skilled chefs can pull that off without damaging the golden deliciousness.

      and freshly grate wasabi. yes, you can find that in any great japanese restaurant. but it never ceases to amaze me how.. sweet it can be.

      YUM. i have to go there when i visit la!

      Reply
    3. MyLastBite says

      December 02, 2009 at 10:44 am

      Wish HE kept it a secret for just a little while longer!! : )

      Reply
    4. Sarah J. Gim says

      December 02, 2009 at 12:52 pm

      Juney: Sushi for breakfast!

      Fiona: Isn't that uni on the sushi omakase gorgeous?! Seeing it presented naked (instead of dressed up in a sheet of nori) was totally new to me. I quite liked it that way. The nori sometimes gets in the way of chewing and makes the uni squish out all over the place.

      MyLastBite: Right?! But then how would we have found out about it...? :D

      Reply
    5. Steve Kang says

      December 02, 2009 at 1:01 pm

      Hi Sarah!

      You're killing me with those pics. How can I eat Panda for lunch now?

      Reply
    6. Amy says

      December 02, 2009 at 1:30 pm

      Wow, Sarah - your pics make me want to fly to LA asap & get the tasting menu - I'm not sure which dish I'd pick for most mind-boggling, but I'm pretty sure I would have clapped when the fried mackerel skeleton was placed in front of me (and not so much with the live abalone). But all of it - again: Wow.

      Reply
    7. Uncouth Gourmands says

      December 02, 2009 at 1:40 pm

      Is it wrong that I think uni is the sexiest looking food ever?

      Reply
    8. Sarah J. Gim says

      December 02, 2009 at 2:16 pm

      Steve: What do you mean?! Panda Express?! Panda is awesome. For some reason, I love their weird version of sriracha "hot cock" hot sauce in the packets. It's grainier and sweeter.

      As for the question of the best sushi in LA (you asked on facebook)...I can't say that Kiyokawa is yet because I've only gone once. I love Kiriko and Mori Sushi, though they are expensive habits (it is sushi, after all). Obviously, these are totally narrow choices, as I have not tried some of the "famous" places downtown like Sushi Gen, Toshi, R23, etc.

      Amy: I think I actually DID clap for the mackerel! Or at least did a little quiet squeal of fear mixed with joy.

      Uncouth: No, it is so totally right.

      Reply
    9. kevinEats says

      December 02, 2009 at 2:51 pm

      This place looks promising.

      So with all this sanma vs saba talk on Twitter, how were they actually?

      Reply
    10. Anonymous says

      December 02, 2009 at 3:02 pm

      your "inner korean klepto?"

      Reply
    11. djjewelz says

      December 02, 2009 at 11:29 pm

      Awesome time. Now to find me some raw chicken, salmonella be damned.

      Reply
    12. Sarah J. Gim says

      December 02, 2009 at 11:33 pm

      kevin: they were both delicious, though my palate must have become numb in recent months...neither tasted all that strong. which i suppose, might be a good thing.

      anonymous: ok fine. my OUTER korean klepto.

      djjewelz: I swear when Chef was talking to the other customer down that bar about it (yes, obviously, I was eavesdropping), he was saying that they have chicken sashimi at some place downtown...kokekokko? I'd be down to try it. Though I have fears of food poisoning greater than my fear of flying, for some reason, I think I have an immunity to salmonella from all the years of eating raw eggs via cake batter/cookie dough

      Reply
    13. djjewelz says

      December 03, 2009 at 12:14 am

      I "overheard" the exact same thing. I guess I need to decide if I want to try my skewers medium or medium rare. If eating all those quail eggs raw hasn't killed me, I should be ok too.

      Reply
      • sarah says

        December 04, 2009 at 3:17 pm

        jewelz - instead of water grill, maybe we go to kokekokko (isn't it downtown?). not medium rare, or rare, either. raw.

        Reply
        • djjewelz says

          December 10, 2009 at 5:01 pm

          let's do kokekokko.

    14. dawn says

      December 03, 2009 at 7:52 am

      uni! my love for uni runs deep to my summers in Maine where we would eat it straight from the water, kneeling in the water sucking every last uni-drop.
      I wish boston had a few more places like this one. you are lucky to have gone there. with all these exotic dishes I wonder why miso soup was there? seemed odd. not a bad price for everything really.

      Reply
      • sarah says

        December 04, 2009 at 3:21 pm

        dawn: wow! though uni is not my favorite, something about being able to say you "hunted" the urchins and got to eat uni that fresh is so appealing to me...they have uni, i believe, out here in Santa Barbara. I might have to make a trip to do that.

        Reply
    15. Sonja @ ActiveFoodie says

      December 03, 2009 at 2:30 pm

      hold on, let me wipe the drool off my face before I type a response to that bit of sushi porn....

      Reply
    16. yuttiness says

      December 03, 2009 at 4:57 pm

      your photos are phenomenally gorgeous (like yours truly of course). i want to try these yummies. and can you believe i'd never seen raw wasabi before? i thought it came in a toothpaste jar from the wasabi forest. duh!

      Reply
    17. Kevin H says

      December 03, 2009 at 7:50 pm

      Argh. Extremely jealous.

      Reply
    18. Anonymous says

      December 04, 2009 at 12:51 pm

      Whoa, DocChuck take it easy. Better step away from the keyboard and relax for minute. I know what will make you feel better: turn on some FOX news and complain to your neighbors why everyone in America isn't exactly like you. All this looking at other countries' food is going to give you a heart attack. Just ignore the people who eat chips and uncooked food filled with diseases and parasites because they are going to die very soon. Real Americans such as yourself who arrived in this country a little bit earlier than everyone else can then celebrate that your superior American diet is the best and healthiest in the world.

      Reply
      • Kevin H says

        December 04, 2009 at 12:52 pm

        Sorry, posted by me.

        Reply
    19. Paul says

      December 05, 2009 at 1:49 am

      "you folks" and "your people?"

      why are you presuming the blogger is not an American?
      why are you presuming the blogger is Japanese?
      do you feel the same way about carpaccio and steak tartare which are enjoyed by people that are more closer to "your people" in Belgium, the Netherlands, Northern Germany, France, Poland, Hungary, Switzerland, Italy, Czech Republic and Slovakia?

      Curious, educated, non-racist, and non-ethnocentric American minds REALLY want to know.

      Reply
    20. Sarah J. Gim says

      December 05, 2009 at 1:40 pm

      Sonja: The drool is response enough. That's how I react to most foods as well.

      Yuttiness: So have you still not yet seen raw wasabi? We must make a date. What an awesome date that will be, too. "Hey, we should totally go check out raw wasabi together some time"

      Kevin H: Just looking at the pictures again is making me jealous. Of myself. Again.

      Reply
    21. MrsDocChuck says

      December 08, 2009 at 8:54 am

      Please accept my apologies for my husband's extremely rude comments. He has not been well, and the monotony of being housebound may have finally broken him.

      My immigrant parents loved fish in any form. And so do I. Sushi was before their time, but luckily I enjoy it frequently. Your sushi looked so good I could prectically taste it.

      Reply
    22. ingarB says

      December 08, 2009 at 7:06 pm

      my eyes are drooling. this is a very intense post......!

      Reply
    23. Sarah J. Gim says

      December 10, 2009 at 4:44 pm

      ingarB: moved to tears? sushi has done that to me before, too ;)

      Reply

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